--E.J.D.]
FOURTH JOURNEY.
SUI-FU TO CHAO-T'ONG-FU (VIA LAO-WA-T'AN).
CHAPTER VII.
_Chinese and simplicity of speech_. _Author and his caravan stopped_.
_Advice to travelers_. _Farewell to Sui-fu_. _The postal service and
tribute to I.P.O._ _Rushing the stages_. _Details of journey_.
_Description of road to Chao-t'ong-fu_. _Coolie's pay_. _My boy steals
vegetables_. _Remarks on roads and railways_. _The real Opening of
China_. _How the foreigner will win the confidence of the Chinese_.
_Distances and their variability_. _Calculations uprooted_. _Author in a
dilemma_. _The scenery_. _Hard going_. _A wayside toilet, and some
embarrassment_. _Filth inseparable from Chinese humanity_. _About
Chinese inns_. _Typewriter causes some fun_. _Soldiers guard my
doorway_. _Man's own "inner room."_ _One hundred and forty li in a day_.
_Grandeur and solitude_. _Wisdom of traveling alone_. _Coolie nearly
cuts his toe off_. _Street scene at Puerh-tu_. _The "dying" coolie_. _A
manacled prisoner_. _Entertained by mandarins_. _How plans do not work
out_.
He who would make most abundant excuses for the Chinese could not say
that he is simple in his speech.
That speech is the chief revelation of the mind, the first visible form
that it takes, is undoubtedly true: as the thought, so the speech.
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