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Dingle, Edwin John, 1881-1972

"Across China on Foot"

To part
company with the road would mean to die, for elsewhere was no foothold
possible. So in this narrow faithful ledge, torn up by the heavy tread
of countless horses' feet beyond Lao-wa-t'an (where horse traffic
starts), we carefully ordered every step. Looking down, sheer down as
from some lofty palace window, I saw the green snake waiting, waiting
for me. Slipping, there would be no hope--death and the river alone lay
down that treacherous mountain-side. And then, at times, pursuing that
white-faced wriggling demon which stretched out far over the mist-swept
landscape in incessant writhing and annoying contortions, we quite gave
up the chase. It seemed leading me on to some unknown destiny. I knew
not whither; only this I knew--that I must follow.
And so each hour and every hour was fraught with peril which seemed
imminent. But He who guards the fatherless and helpless, feeds the poor
and friendless, guarded the traveler in those days. Mishaps I had none,
and when at night I reached those tiny mountain seats, perched
majestically high for the most part and swept by all the winds of
heaven, I seemed to be the lonely spectator and companionless watcher
over mighty mountain-tops, which appeared every moment to be hesitating
to take a gigantic dive into the roaring river several hundred feet
below our lofty resting-place.


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