The aspect here in
Yuen-nan--politically, morally, socially, spiritually--is that of another
kingdom, another world. Conditions seem, for the most part, the same
yesterday, to-day, and for ever. And in his new environment, which may
be a replica of twenty centuries ago, the dream he dreamed is now
dispelled. "China," he says, "is _not_ awaking; she barely moves, she is
still under the torpor of the ages." And yet again, in the capital and a
few of the larger cities, under your very eyes there goes on a reform
which seems to be the most sweeping reform Asia has yet known.
Such are the inconsistencies, seemingly unchangeable, irreconcilable in
conception or in fact; a truthful portrayal of them tends to render the
writer a most inconsistent being in the eyes of his reader.
* * * * *
No one was ever sped on his way through China with more goodwill than
was the writer when he left Tong-ch'uan-fu; but the above thoughts were
then in his mind.
Long before January 3rd, 1910, the whole town knew that I was going to
Mien Dien (Burma). Confessedly with a sad heart--for I carried with me
memories of kindnesses such as I had never known before--I led my
nervous pony, Rusty, out through the Dung Men (the East Gate), with
twenty enthusiastic scholars and a few grown-ups forming a turbulent
rear.
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